By Melanie Perez
May 6, 2024
As the sun begins to set behind Los Angeles’s palm trees, a different kind of light illuminates the streets. It’s the glow of Erewhon, a health-conscious haven that has steadily captivated the city’s wellness community. However, amidst its organic produce and holistic offerings, questions arise about its influence on the local culture and whether it’s fostering a sense of community or perpetuating a cult-like following.
In 1966, Erewhon became the first shop of its kind in a stall on the streets of Boston. Its founders, macrobiotic educators Aveline and Michio Kushi, the grocery store quickly made its way into the hearts of the macrobiotic conscious community, offering organic and locally sourced goods to inspire “good decision-making and healthier communities.”
In 1966, Erewhon became the first shop of its kind in a stall on the streets of Boston. Its founders, macrobiotic educators Aveline and Michio Kushi, the grocery store quickly made its way into the hearts of the macrobiotic conscious community, offering organic and locally sourced goods to inspire “good decision-making and healthier communities.”
Today, the grocery store chain consists of ten stores sprawled across Los Angeles’s various neighborhoods, serving as a trendy hangout and a Sunday shopping spot. Each store emulates an upscale health store vibe, whilst maintaining a casual demeanor — users can access aisles of health supplements, grab a bite to eat at the coveted hot food bar, or even sign up to take Erewhon sponsored yoga classes and spa retreats. It has transcended beyond the label of grocery store – Erewhon is where the coolest kids in LA hang out.
Erewhon has been particularly transparent regarding their controversial price tags, which exclude a vast majority of Los Angeles residents from shopping in stores. The grocer has teamed with numerous organic suppliers, as well as the American Farmers Network (AFN) to bring high-quality, organic, domestic grass-fed beef and produce to Los Angeles consumers.
However, that has not stopped consumers for being critical of the fact that Erewhon’s “oxygenated” water bottle can set back customers $26, as can many other regular items sold in store. But for many other Angelenos, Erewhon is much more than a grocery store — each trip allows users to emulate a lifestyle that they aspire to.
For Erewhon patron and Silverlake native Reilly Gallagher, Erewhon has become a social sanctuary, as well as an unmissable collective experience. “I didn’t really start coming to Erewhon until about a year ago, when others started coming too,” Gallagher shares. “Despite the prices, it feels like something that I can do if I can afford it, and I just really like the experience. It makes me feel like I’m a part of the scene.”
In recent years, Erewhon has expanded its ever-elusive collective experience through countless collaborations that are hard to not pay attention to. Notoriously, Erewhon released a “Skin Glaze” smoothie in collaboration with skincare mogul Hailey Bieber, which was launched in tandem with Bieber’s skincare brand “Rhode” in 2022.
The drink is symbolic of what Erewhon’s culture strives for — impossible beauty, luxury, hype, and unattainable wellness. Whilst Erewhon has tested its wellness smoothie prowess with other collaborators, such as Olivia Rodrigo, no other smoothie has been more symbolic of the culture that Erewhon and its consumers have created.
To ensure that the Erewhon lifestyle does not fade once customers leave the market, Erewhon offers lifestyle memberships to complement or enhance the existing lifestyles of the Los Angeles elite. Ranging from exclusive dating apps to a ClassPass to access countless gyms and spas, to extensive discounts on vacations to the Maui Ritz-Carlton, allowing for Erewhon to seep into many facets of the lives of consumers.
To those who may not be necessarily local to Los Angeles, such as Libby Shull, visiting Erewhon is considered an irresistible “When-In-Rome” novelty rather than an arresting lifestyle; it is considered comparable to strolling down Hollywood Boulevard or hiking up Griffith Park.
“Once I saw it on TikTok, I knew I had to try the food,” 18-year-old Shull explains. “It’s a fun thing to drive up to LA for, and it definitely lives up to the hype.”
Despite Erewhon’s current buzz, there are many skeptics who have raised concerns about the chain’s exclusivity and high prices. For LA newbie Lizzy Hunt, Erewhon is less of a convenient grocery store than it is a symbol of wealth and status.
“I’m probably never coming back here,” Lizzy says. “I just don’t know that anything in there is particularly special, and I’d spend less money at a decently priced restaurant. It’s just so quintessentially LA that it makes people feel good about themselves.”
While not many are able to afford thousand dollar Erewhon X Balenciaga hoodies, Angelenos can find solace in their status as they enjoy $20 dollar smoothies, lounging in the fourth-space phenomenon. Beyond status, consumers can also find solace in the fact that they are consuming “healthier” foods for the hefty price tag.
““If you want better food, you pay for better food,” Los Angeles Native Wida Hyde says. “This is a place where you feel like you’re getting something really special and good for you”
